New Year’s Hike to Mount Hiei(比叡山)

New Year’s Hike to Mount Hiei(比叡山)

The first morning of the year always carries a special kind of energy. While many were still asleep after New Year’s Eve celebrations, I decided to welcome 2025 with a refreshing hike up Mount Hiei (比叡山) to see the brand new surise(初日の出).


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Early Start: Catching the First Train

To make the most of the day, I caught the first train of the morning on the JR Kosei Line, heading to Hieizan Sakamoto Station (比叡山坂本駅). The air was crisp and cold, and the station was quiet, with only a few other early risers. The moment I stepped off the train, I felt the excitement of a new adventure.

The Ascent: Step by Step into the Darkness

At around 5:00 AM, I started my hike from the station. After passing Keihan’s Sakamoto  Station(京阪 坂本駅), I walked along the approach to Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine(日吉大社).

A few people were visiting for their first shrine visit of the year (初詣:hatsumōde), but I guess it was much quieter compared to the moment when New Year’s Eve turned into New Year’s Day. The morning air was peaceful and still. I continued past the entrance of Hiyoshi Taisha, climbing the stone-paved stairs next to the hexagonal Rokakudō Hall(六角堂).

Since it was still dark, I relied on my headlamp to the way. The rhythmic crunch of my boots against the frozen ground and the occasional rustling of trees were the only sounds accompanying me. The climb up Mount Hiei is known for its steady incline, and with each step, I could feel the strain—but also the thrill of the journey.

Walking through the darkness gave the mountain an entirely different atmosphere compared to daytime hikes. The solitude allowed me to fully absorb the moment, reflect on the past year, and think about the possibilities of the year ahead. It felt like a spiritual reset.

Reaching the Summit: A Temple Above the Clouds

As the first light of dawn began to illuminate the sky, I realized that I wouldn’t make it to the summit in time for the first sunrise. Moving at a steady pace, I suddenly felt a sharp stomach ache, accompanied by chills and a cold sweat, making me anxious. About 15 minutes away from Enryaku-ji Temple, the urge to find a restroom became overwhelming, so I quickened my pace. My cold sweat gradually turned into real sweat from the exertion.

When I finally arrived at Enryaku-ji Temple(延暦寺), I saw that the shop was already open.  Right next to it was a clean, modern restroom—automatic doors, heated interiors, and even a bidet-equipped toilet. I had gone to bed early on New Year's Eve, but I couldn't resist celebrating with five cups of premium daiginjō sake. That might have been a mistake, as my stomach had not taken it well. Although I missed the first sunrise, I felt refreshed and relieved after recovering from my stomach troubles.

Just as I reached the temple grounds, light snowflakes began to fall, adding a serene and almost magical touch to the morning landscape. 

Enryaku-ji Temple, this historic temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is one of the most significant places in Japanese Buddhism. I stepped inside Konpon Chūdō, the main hall, which is currently undergoing large-scale renovations. The solemn atmosphere washed over me as I took a moment to reflect. To my surprise, the viewing area had heated carpets—an unexpectedly pleasant touch 😂.

Reaching the True Summit: Towards Mount Dai Hiei

To reach the actual summit of Mount Hiei, known as Dai Hiei (大比叡), I needed to continue hiking for another 30 minutes from Enryaku-ji Temple. The trail led me up a slightly steeper incline, passing by an old television tower that was once used for analog broadcasting but is now abandoned due to the transition to digital signals. Eventually, I reached the triangulation point marking the peak of Mount Dai Hiei.

The summit of Dai Hiei marks the border between Kyoto Prefecture and Shiga Prefecture. While Enryaku-ji is in Ōtsu City, Shiga, descending westward from the summit leads into Kyoto Prefecture, where the trail eventually reaches the parking area of the Garden Museum Hiei. From this vantage point, I was rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view of Kyoto City, stretching far into the horizon.

A Moment of Rest at the Garden Museum

At the entrance of the Garden Museum Hiei, I stopped by a vending machine and bought a warm bottle of Japanese tea(Ocha お茶). Sipping the hot tea, I admired the lightly snow-covered mountains and the quiet morning view of Kyoto City. The peacefulness of the moment made the early morning hike feel even more rewarding.

Descending Towards the Sakamoto Cable Car

Instead of descending into Kyoto, I decided to return via the Sakamoto side. I retraced my steps from Dai Hiei and took a different route towards the Sakamoto Cable Car station. The rooftop of the station is known as a scenic viewpoint, offering a breathtaking view—not of Kyoto, but of Shiga Prefecture, home to Japan’s largest lake, Lake Biwa. Although the sun had already risen higher in the sky, the sight of the lake stretching toward the distant mountains, illuminated by the sunlight, brought a sense of warmth and serenity.

Though taking the cable car down was an option, I still had enough energy, so I chose to hike down instead.

Journey Down to Sakamoto

I watched the cable car depart and then followed the hiking trail that runs alongside the cable line. The path led me through a quiet forest, where there were no other hikers in sight. The peacefulness of the surroundings made the descent an enjoyable experience. Along the way, I passed a sign indicating the tomb of Ki no Tsurayuki, a famous poet from Japan’s Heian period, but I decided to continue without stopping.

By the time I reached Sakamoto at around 9:00 AM, my hike had come to an end. I headed home to spend the rest of New Year’s Day with my family, who had taken the chance to sleep in and enjoy a slow morning.

Returning Home

After reaching Sakamoto, I made my way to Hieizan Sakamoto Station and boarded the JR Kosei Line back to Kyoto Station. Sitting on the train, I reflected on the morning’s journey—starting in the quiet darkness, climbing step by step, feeling the crisp mountain air, and finally witnessing the breathtaking views of Kyoto and Shiga. It was a perfect way to welcome the new year, and as the train gently rocked, I felt a deep sense of fulfillment.

A Meaningful Start to the Year

There’s something about starting the year with a challenging yet rewarding hike that sets the tone for the months ahead. The journey up Mount Hiei reminded me that every step—whether in hiking or in life—matters. The climb may be tough, but the reward at the top is always worth it.

Would you consider a New Year’s hike? If so, I highly recommend Mount Hiei for both its natural beauty and spiritual significance.