My First Visit to Fushimi Inari Taisha（伏見稲荷大社）

A Kyoto Native’s Perspective

Growing up in a city near Kyoto, I always knew about Fushimi Inari Taisha（伏見稲荷大社）. It’s one of Japan’s most famous shrines, with its iconic red torii gates stretching endlessly into the mountains. But despite its proximity, I had never visited. Why? Because it was always packed with tourists. To me, it was a place for visitors, not for locals.

Then, all of a sudden, the COVID-19 pandemic. The lockdowns, the quiet streets, the sudden emptiness of places that were once teeming with people. Kyoto, a city usually filled with international travelers, had turned into something I had never seen before—almost ghostly. And it was during this strange time, in October 2020, that I finally decided to visit Fushimi Inari Taisha.

A Quiet, Unusual Fushimi Inari

When I arrived at the shrine, the absence of crowds was surreal. Normally, I had seen photos of the main entrance packed with people, everyone waiting for their turn to take the perfect shot under the torii gates.

But on this day, there were only a few locals and a quiet breeze. I could even take a photo of the Torii path with no one in it—something that felt almost impossible before—and now completely impossible. The shrine had returned to its most natural state—serene and sacred.

Walking through the torii path felt like stepping into another world. Each gate, painted in vibrant vermillion, stood tall and unmoving, as if guarding the secrets of the mountain. Without the usual chatter of tourists, I could hear the sounds of nature—the rustling leaves, the distant chirping of birds, and my own footsteps on the stone path. It was a rare experience, one that I doubt I will ever have again.

Climbing the Shrine, Finding Peace

I followed the trail up and passed through the famous Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates). I took a break at a quiet viewpoint, looking down at Kyoto city. For the first time, I understood why this place had been revered for centuries. The mountain was not just a tourist attraction; it was a place of prayer, reflection, and connection with nature. Perhaps this was how it might have felt a thousand years ago, long before Kyoto became a global travel destination.

A Newfound Appreciation for Kyoto’s Landmarks

After this visit, I realized how little I had explored my own backyard. For the same reason, I had never visited Kiyomizu-dera(清水寺）before the pandemic. I had always avoided these “tourist spots,” but in doing so, I had missed out on experiencing Kyoto’s rich history and spirituality.

Fushimi Inari Taisha, during that unique moment in time, felt like a different world—one where I could truly understand its significance. Now, even though the tourists have returned, I remember that day as a rare opportunity to see the shrine as it was meant to be: quiet, mysterious, and deeply spiritual.

So, if you ever visit Kyoto, I encourage you to explore beyond the main attractions. And if you can, find a quiet moment at Fushimi Inari Taisha.

My very first visit to Fushimi Inari was during a time when the path was nearly empty. Now, however, it is fully packed with tourists. Fortunately, there are many hidden trails that allow visitors to escape the crowds, as most people tend to follow the main route up the mountain. I would like to introduce some of these lesser-known trails that I have explored, revealing the mysterious and spiritual side of Fushimi Inari Taisha.